Following are the steps I took when I split my fairing along with some pictures that may help.

You will need the following tools:

Remove the plastic cover from the light bar. It simply snaps on and off:

Next, if you have installed the Yamaha Passing Light Kit, then you will also have to loosen the two 6mm bolts that hold the light bar on. You DO NOT need to remove these bolts. Simply loosen them as much as possible without removing them. I usually loosen each side a bit at a time.

Using a 3mm ballend or allen wrench, remove the four screws from the back side of the fairing on each side as shown below:

Now, carefully remove the chrome windshield trim. Lift from each end simultaneously and carefully work towards the center kind of lifting up and back towards the windshield.

When putting the chrome trim back on, start in the middle and then work to the outsides evenly.

Below are some pictures showing the fragile tabs and where they align. It may help to see what these look like to better understand how to remove the trim.

Now, remove the six windshield screws using a 3mm ballend or allen wrench. These screws also hold on the windshield so be careful. A second person to hold the windshield until all screws are out may be wise. After all six screws have been removed, carefully remove the windshield by gently lifting it straight up.

On Yamaha windshields, most of the mounting holes are slots. The third hole from right (see photo) is an actual hole. By removing the third hole from right last it will help prevent the windshield from sliding out while you are working. This is true for the Yamaha windshields. It is uncertain which if any of the aftermarket windshields are the same. 

Remove the screw at the bottom of the headlight trim using a 4mm ballend or allen wrench. This is the last screw holding your fairing front on so be ready to support the fairing until you are ready to lift it out.

You are now ready to remove the fairing front. Some members have said they can not remove the fairing front without removing the lightbar. I find it comes off quite easily if done right. You must pull out gently, then rotate the fairing front right as you continue to pull it out. I have the Yamaha Light Kit with standard bolts as well as the headlight visor and can get this off with no trouble. Here is a digital video clip of me removing my fairing front:

http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/attachments/faring.avi about 2.5mb

On my bike shown in this demonstration, I have removed the fork wind deflectors and do not use them. You may find it necessary to remove these in order to get enough tilt on the lightbar.

Another option of course is to remove the lightbar bolts and gently set the lightbar on top of your blanket covered fender. If you do this, it would be advisable to secure the lightbar with some string to prevent it from sliding off the fender. Be careful not to pinch or stretch the lightbar wiring harness if you use this method.

If you find taking the fairing apart with the stock light kit is too difficult, several members have replaced the stock light bar mounting bolts with longer ones to allow for more loosening. Others have installed a extension bracket made by one of our members that allows the fairing to be removed without loosening the light bar. You can read more about this at:

http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/index.php?action=article&cat_id=002002&id=248

Finally, you can now get to work on whatever it is you needed to split the fairing for. Below is a picture of the fairing insides.

To re-install, simply follow these procedures in reverse. No torque specifications are listed in my shop manual for any of these screws or bolts. Most of these screws are M5 which uses a general torque specification of 35 in. lbs. The screw in the headlight trim is a M6 screw and the general torque specification for that size is 80 in. lbs.