The connector plug for the switch is located on the left side of the main frame at the rear of the engine. Once you have disconnected the plug, ground one lead of your tester to the engine and the other lead is used to probe the contacts on the engine side of your plug as you shift through the gears (ensure the bike is not running and the ignition is off). When you select a position on the gear shift check each of the contacts on your plug you should have continuity on at least one of the contacts. continue this process for each of the other positions of your shifter. You should have continuity at each of the positions ,if not the switch is defective.

You then have the option of purchasing a new switch around $25, or if your lucky you may be able to purchase the bronze contact pin.

The switch is easy to remove but can be a pain to put back in. To access the switch you must remove the cover on the left transmission side, next to the Stator cover (left side of the engine). "Ensure you drain the oil" You can trace the switch harness to the switch which is held in place with three #2 Philips screws. Once they are removed just pull gently on the wiring harness and the switch comes out. Behind this is a small metal plate held in place with a single #2 Philips screw, you will see the pin/contact, likely the head will be worn flat, it should be rounded. I removed it with a long pair of needlenose pliers. "A magnetic Screwdiver is prefered"

I wasn't able to obtain a new pin so I used the old one as a template and fabricated one from a bronze machine screw of the same diameter. I filed the head of the screw to remove the sharp edges and cut the screw to the same length as the pin. It's best if you can use a screw with no threads at the end with the head, however if you sand or file the sharp edges of the threads it will not hang up and work fine.

Getting this back in place can be a bit frustrating, however I found that a short piece of vacumn line placed over the end of the screw head, the length of the distance from the outer side of the engine to the switch location about 8" and stiffened by inserting a peice of coat hanger or welding rod the same length in the hose allowed me to put the pin in the hole it came from and hold it in place while I repositioned the retainer. Installing the contacts plate in the transmission was relatively simple.

Seems like a long time but I only spent about 1 hour on the whole job. By the way it works fine.