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Starter Gear Train Overhaul |
Author: Archives Views: 13830 Votes: 18 |
Starter Gear Train OverhaulHey Bob, so glad to hear back from you. I will try my best to make this as clear as possible. You will start having a condition where when you are cranking the engine, the starter will turn free, but the engine is not turning. The problem is in the starter gear train, and not actually the starter motor.When the starter is turning, it turns the starter gear train. This turns the starter clutch gear behind the rotor. Three rollers (dowel pins), mounted in the rotor, jam against the clutch gear, locking them together, turning the crank. This item is what has gone bad. The following parts will be needed. Regardless of what the manual calls them, this is the list from the parts micro fische card. You will need 1 Yamaha part# 120-26H-15517-00-00 Idler gear #2. $32.99. 3 Yamaha pt# 120-90501-04623-00 compression spring. $2.88 ea. And 3 pt# 120-93615-12088-00 dowel pin. (these are actually about the size of a dime, and a half inch thick). $3.75 ea. 1 Pt# 120-3JP-15451-01-00. Left engine case gasket. $5.99 ea. 1 pt# 120-3JP-15461-01-00 middle gear cover gasket. $1.99 ea. And of course, oil and filter. Drain the oil. Remove middle gear cover, and left side case. Remove starter gear train. Remove rotor securing bolt. Scribe a mark on the end of the crank, to use as a reference, when later installing the rotor. If the rotor is not fully seated when the bolt is retorqued, it will come loose very shortly after running the engine. Use a flywheel puller, and adapter to remove rotor (this will be the most difficult and time consuming portion, it will seem impossible). Make sure to use a high quality flywheel puller, and the strongest bolts you can find. This baby is on there!! It will be about lunch time by now. Eat first, you will need the strength. And by the way, it's really on there. Did I mention that it was on there? O.K. once the rotor is off, pay very close attention to how this comes apart. first the rotor comes off. Inside the back of the rotor is the "three dowel pins, three plungers, then the three springs". One set in each slot. Take the woodruff key out of the slot in the crank. Then slide off the clutch gear. Check the crank for wear, if all is O.K. first put on the new gear. then reinstall the woodruff key. Then put the new spring into the old plunger, and put into slot. then put the new dowel pin into place. Repeat for the next two sets, make sure nothing falls out while doing this. Once the new dowels are in place, the springs should hold them in. Slide the rotor onto the crank. Gently push and turn towards the front wheel, it should pop into place. This should take a couple of trys to get it right. Just keep trying, and check to see nothing fell out. It seems better to put the gear into the rotor first, but it is not. The gear has to go on before the key is installed, then the rotor (ask me how I know this). Then install the securing bolt and torque to 94 ft lb. Make very sure the rotor is fully seated. If properly torqued, but not seated it will come loose. Check for the scribe mark, you made earlier. Check the gear train for wear, and broken teeth, replace as necessary. Then reinstall the gear train. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO RUN THE STARTER WITHOUT THE LEFT ENGINE CASE INSTALLED. YOU WILL DAMAGE THE CASE, IF THE GEARS MOVED OUT OF PLACE. THERE IS A LOT OF MOMENTUM IN THIS TRAIN AT THIS POINT (ask me how I know this. Three weekends of engine removal, and $100 worth of case welding, and two w/e of reinstallation)!!! Place the new gaskets, and reinstall the left case, and middle gear cover. Don't forget to add fresh oil, and change the filter. You may also want to add that it is a good time to inspect the clutch slave cylinder. Or even rebuild it at this point, to save some rework in the future. Also, check the windings in the generator. Another point to look at, is the rotor securing bolt. On very early models, the bolt did not have the oil hole, to cool the windings. If your bolt is not the new style, replace it. I hope this information is helpful in some way, and if anyone needs any further help, please refer them to me, and I will be more than happy to explain the procedure to them. Thanks, again for taking the time to help me share this info with those who may need it. Jeff.
Last update: 11:58 AM Sunday, September 26, 2004 |
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