FITTING OEM CB TO NON-US MODEL RSV 

I had an Australian model 99 RSV which does not come standard with CB.  This, I understand, is the same as the European models.  I acquired a CB, passenger push-to-talk (PTT) button, wire loom and handlebar control unit on e-bay and then fitted this to the bike.  Here is a description of the process and most importantly, the wiring directions for a successful mount.  I no longer have the bike but I have used photos provided by Oliver in Europe, Marshall’s web page and the notes I took while working out the puzzle. 

Equipment list: 

I mounted the CB in the trunk – simply slid it into the little ‘net’ type pouch that is there – the CB was standing on its side (edge) in the trunk.  I had the CD mounted vertically in the trunk as well and this helped keep the CB in place (as well as sliding the owners manual alongside the CB so all was snug). The cables ran through the large hole that is already located in the front right of the trunk – just enlarge the grommet. 

The signal splitter is the size of a small packet of cigarettes so I put that and the cables neatly under the grey foam to the front right side of the trunk.

The stereo / CB head unit is located under the front fairing.  All the components have DIN plugs (not sure what this stands for) that plug directly into the unit.  These are colour coded – as shown in the picture below, the CB plug is coded YELLOW:

 The CB unit is shown below:

There are a number of wires coming out of the CB and these are used as follows:

• Yellow DIN:  plugs into 13 pin patch cable – CB to head unit under front fairing.  Run this wire under seats, tank and then into fairing.
  
  
• Grey cable: CB antenna wire – Motorola type plug (same as standard AM/FM radio antenna cable). Runs from unit to antenna (or signal splitter if fitted).
  
  
• Three wire socket (I obtained the correct female portion of this plug and colour coded wires when I purchased the CB but any wire will do as long as you know where it is going!) :
  
  
  • Red:  permanent fused power (direct from battery or other permanent power wire) Ensure this is fused.  (I assume this maintains the channels and settings).  Refer to Clymer manual page 482 and 481.  This wire is labeled red/green from the CB unit.  As you will see, the red/green on page 481 is represented by the code “E” and connects to permanent fused power. 
    
    
  • Red/Black: this wire goes to a power supply that is activated when the ignition is turned on.  (tail lights, other stereo power wires etc)  I used the plug that sits to the left side of the battery and is called an auxiliary plug (it is a white two wire plug).  I just used a quick connect to the hot wire of that plug – it is only powered up when the ignition is on.  Page 482 of the manual labels this wire as the brown/white wire and is labeled “B” on page 482 and 480.
    
    
  • Green:  earth (ground) wire.  Just connect this to the chassis or somewhere to earth.

 Antenna and splitter. 

Two options:

 1.   Single antenna (‘Marshall mod’ with the firestick type antenna) to operate radio and CB.  For this mod, you need:

·    Antenna

·    Splitter

·    SWR tuner

·    Patch cable - splitter to CB – this is a co-ax screw type at one end and a Motorola one at the other – only about 4 inches long.

·    Patch cable – this cable is a co-ax type with screw socket on both ends to run from base of antenna directly into the splitter – mine was 18 inches long.  You could also consider a 90 degree elbow connection on the base of the antenna – this allows the cable to run straight under the trunk and is a cleaner look.  These elbows are available at radio shack – be sure not to over tighten these when you screw them into the antenna base as they will break easily – just a light snug to tighten.

·    New standard antenna cable – Motorola plugs both ends run from head unit under fairing to splitter in trunk – maybe 6 feet needed.

 Once the antenna is plugged into the splitter with the co-ax, you can then plug the CB into the splitter (using the short patch cable) and the bike radio antenna into the splitter (your new cord). 

2.  New antenna solely for the CB:

Having one antenna for the radio and one for the CB is a good set up and I would go down this path if I was to do it again.  The antenna would simply need to be plugged into the CB using the 18 inch long patch cable as described above.

 Push to Talk (PTT) button

I purchased the rear PTT assembly with my other items.  I removed the rear speaker assembly and accessed the two screws that hold the switch in.  This switch had the volume and PTT button and there were a few wires:

• Volume wire was thick black 8-10 wires and hooked up under the seat. (vague memory not many notes)
• PTT wires: 2: green and orange.
• Speaker wires: 2: brown and red.

The PTT and speaker wires terminated in a black plug with six terminals.  This is located under the pillion seat and is secured to the frame with a black plastic tab. 

 The plug ‘in’ from the PTT and speakers and ‘out’ to the bike loom is as follows: 

• In:  green.         Out: pink/blue
• In:  orange.       Out: black
• In:  red.            Out: blue/green
• In:  brown:        Out: black/pink
• In:  nil               Out: green/yellow (did not know what this wire was used for)
• In:  nil               Out:  yellow/white (did not know what this wire was used for)

 These wires end up at the main head unit under the front fairing…as seen below.  I do not know what the three spaces are for but I can confirm that the loom at the back of the bike (as described above) is part of this loom and the PTT wire is the pink/blue.  This is important so you can connect your new PTT on the front of the bike.

I made my own push to talk button and velcroed it under the left indicator switch housing within easy reach of my thumb.  The switch is a momentary on/off switch from radio shack and looks like this:

I ran an earth (ground) wire off one terminal (soldered to it) and the other wire goes to the pink/blue wire in the main loom as described above.  A quick connect is all I needed for the pink/blue wire. Slide some shrink tubing onto your two wires to the switch before you connect ensuring the tube goes over the terminals on the switch – this can then be heated and shrinks over the end to make it waterproof.  The length of wire can be covered in the shrink tubing and fed along the wires already on the handlebar into the front fairing.

I put a piece of Velcro under the indicator control (the horizontal surface) and then wrapped a sticky velcroe strip around the switch – around the black part below the red button.  This could then be secured to the indicator housing.

 The other option is to change the headlight flash button (as seen below) into the PTT button (as is on the US models).  This is the best way to do the PTT but when I did mine, I did not know what wire to use.

‘Oliver’ has tested and determined that the yellow wire under the front fairing in the blue connector is the live wire for the headlight flash switch.  Therefore, if this wire was cut and the switch end connected to the pink/blue in the loom then when the button is pushed, it will activate the PTT instead of flashing the headlight….I will probably do this next time instead of putting on separate switch.

At this stage, the CB is in the trunk connected to the antenna (or splitter), the auxiliary power (activated by the ignition switch), to permanent fused power, earth (ground) and PTT under front fairing. 

The other issue now is to work out if the non-US model handlebar control unit is set up for the CB but without the CB select button…as shown below:

If you now have the correct handlebar control unit, and it is connected to the head unit, you can now turn the CB on and test the PTT button.  When CB is on and you push the PTT button, a code of ‘TX’ appears on the handlebar control unit (transmit).  You now need to tune the antenna with the SWR tuner.  The tuner must be connected between the antenna and the CB…it has been described under Marshall’s’ link:

 http://bludolphintravel.com/gmg/marshallmod.htm

 Handlebar control: I can not remember the exact sequence of buttons but you need to adjust the volume and the squelch (SQ) I think Marshall’s web page may address this.

Last update: 07:44 PM Thursday, March 9, 2006

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