5 - Installing Headsets

Here are the instructions that I sent to all who asked for them following my post on the GWRRA message board. In my opinon, the KOSS headset sounds much better than the J&M or Cyclecomm, both of which I have used. In return for the instructions I have two requests, (1) That you send me some feed back letting me know what you think and any suggestions, and (2) I am looking for a bottle/can of Liquid electrical tape. I will gladly pay for it. I can't find it in my area, I am a Department of the Army civilian employee stationed in Germany. I'm in the office now and am writing this from memory, hope I don't miss anything. I installed mine in a Full Faced helmet but, am including instructions for how I THINK I would do it in an Open Face (3/4 helmet).

Tools needed: 1. Set of Jewelers screw drivers (Radio Shack should have them) (Actually, you only need 1 of the Phillips head) 2. Small tip Soldering iron 3. 3 hands and some patience

*** 3/4 Helmet, Only remove headband and detach mic! 1. Remove the foam covers from each earphone. Look at the earphones (speakers) closely and you'll see the TINY Phillips head screws that hold the headband. You'll also notice that there is a tab on the face of the speakers that holds the outer ring. 2. Once you remove the ALL the screws and detach the speaker from the outer ring, you'll see the 2 screws and 3 tabs that hold the mic, remove them and clip the mic wire (yellow), keep the wire as long as possible (about 3/4 to 1" or more). Also, take the end of the mic off the arm (the piece that attaches the mic to the left speaker back). ***If you're installing in a 3/4 you only need to dissemble the left speaker and detach the mic. Once mic is detached, reassemble the speaker. 3. Clip the 3 wires running from the speakers and mic (remember, the wire from the right headphone needs to long enough to reach around the back of the helmet to left side, too long is better than too short). 4. About 5-6" of the left over mic wire needs to be soldered to the 2 wires on the mic. Yellow = Hot, Cooper = ground. All of the wires are EXTREMELY SMALL so, be careful when striping them. 5. Strip the Black outer coating from each of the 3 wires thus exposing the inner wires. Inside you'll find 2 wires, 1 insulated. The un-insulated (copper) wire is the ground. The Red, White and Yellow are the Hot (+). 6. Disassemble the DIN plugs and look at the back side. 7. Starting from left to right solder the wires in the following sequence: a. Pin 1 = Mic + (Yellow) b. Pin 2 = Mic - (copper or silver) c. Pin 3 = Speaker - (copper, tie left & right together) d. Pin 4 = Left Speaker + (White) e. Pin 5 = Right Speaker + (Red) 8. Reassemble the DIN plug 9. Cut the ends off the Computer keyboard cable. The DIN plugs that are attached to the cable WILL NOT work unless you are able to disassemble them and unsolder the wires. 10. Solder a DIN plug onto each end remembering the colors of the five wires. There should be a Silver ground wire, use it for your speaker ground. 11. Plug everything into your bike and make sure it works before installing them in the helmet.

HELMET INSTALLATION: Full Face: I removed the cheek pad assembly (1 piece, left & right cheek pads and nose section) and peeled back the section of cloth that covers the ear wells and put the speakers in. Cut a small slit in the front of the left cheek pad (where the pad & nose section meet) and pushed my fingers through from the front and rear until they met. Did this to create a hole for the mic arm. Ran the mic in from the rear and out the slit near the nose and velcroed it to the nose piece. Put the cheek pad assembly back into the helmet, routed the right speaker wire around to left (used a Popcicle stick to tuck the wire in between the padding and helmet shell. Tuck excess wire behind the left pad. Open Face (3/4): Most of the Open face helmets I've seen have ear wells and that's where I would put the speakers with velcro (rough part on the speaker, soft part in the helmet). Put the foam covers back on. Mic: You should be able to lift the left cheek pad up enough to slide in some of the mic arm and then secure it to the helmet (Maybe the J&M hardware kit, $13.95 will secure it or some sort of small clamp). I would also get a wind sock to put over the mic (Radio Shack used to sell them).

I hope this covers everything. If I left something out, feel free to send me an email. Take care and ride safe! Paul Willis

U.S. Army Retired (22 years)

First Area Rep for the Sierra Vista, Arizona GWRRA Chapter 1980 - 83 97 GL1500A

Last update: 10:59 PM Saturday, September 25, 2004

• Determining Speaker Polarity